{"id":72,"date":"2008-06-09T04:36:45","date_gmt":"2008-06-08T20:36:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/127.0.0.1\/wordpress63\/?p=72"},"modified":"2013-03-29T18:55:08","modified_gmt":"2013-03-29T10:55:08","slug":"power-corrupts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/diyparadise.com\/w\/power-corrupts\/","title":{"rendered":"Power Corrupts!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>My DIY Darling journey.<br \/>\n<!--more--><\/p>\n<h2 align=\"center\"><span>Power Corrupts!<\/span><\/h2>\n<p>\n<span><br \/>\nWhen CK Kok, resident guru on DIY Den had an article on a very simple 2A3 based<br \/>\nsingle ended amplifier, I don&#8217;t have to tell you there&#8217;s this bloke here<br \/>\ngrinning ear to ear. Like what &quot;Tok Guru&quot; said, once you listen to<br \/>\nsome low-power SE magic, your life&#8217;s changed for good! You won&#8217;t go back to<br \/>\nanything else after that. I know the day when audiophiles appreciate the magic<br \/>\nof SE amps and high efficiency speakers is a long long way to fruition.&nbsp; After<br \/>\nall, the very idea of so few watts bringing so much magic is alien to this<br \/>\nindustry where the likes of mega-power behemoths with electrical consumption<br \/>\nhigher than your electric kettle is hailed.&nbsp; So, here let me share with you<br \/>\nmy journey on an amplifier that consumes less energy than this PC I&#8217;m typing<br \/>\non&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Like most Malaysian audiophiles, I look forward to<br \/>\nThursdays as every Thursday is The Star&#8217;s Audiofile day. That particular fateful<br \/>\nday is when Audiofile had an article focusing on DIYers. Hmm&#8230; the idea<br \/>\nappealed greatly to me. If gears are expensive, why not build one yourself?<br \/>\nSounds good. Also, if I could pull this off, this will be one MASSIVE boost to<br \/>\nmy ego. Hee hee hee&#8230; Also, that particular article led to me this mailing<br \/>\nlist, Kuala Lumpur Audio NutS.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>A few correspondence on KLANS later got me REALLY<br \/>\nserious into considering DIY. Credit goes to that bloke with a tube nickname&#8230;<br \/>\nYou know who I&#8217;m talking about!&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Aha! Time to brush up my electronics! But my<br \/>\naffinity of falling asleep when holding a<br \/>\ntelephone-directory-sized-mashed-tree-pulp didn&#8217;t bring much progress.<br \/>\nFortunately, for my generation, there is the great World Wide Web and off I go!<br \/>\nI found a really wonderful site, Nelson Pass&#8217; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.passlabs.com\">http:\/\/www.passlabs.com<\/a><br \/>\nthat explains electronics very beautifully to me. Nelson Pass not only has a<br \/>\ngift in electronics, he has also the talent of bringing &quot;life&quot; into<br \/>\nthe very dry subject of electronics.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Another benefit of Pass&#8217; website is the various<br \/>\nDIY projects there. Particularly interesting is his 10W Zen amp. Now Nelson<br \/>\nPass is a serious proponent of class A and I can&#8217;t agree more with him. Class A<br \/>\nis most linear with least noise though a lot less efficient, which thankfully,&nbsp;homebuilders<br \/>\ncan get away with. Anyway, this got me itching towards<br \/>\nbuilding my own Zen amp. Hey, with tag lines like &quot;Less is more&quot;, can<br \/>\nyou out-Zen Nelson Pass?<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>This point in time, I was dead set on Class A and<br \/>\nMOSFETs seem to marry the convenience of solid state and sonic quality of tubes.<br \/>\nHowever, one day on the KLANS mailing<br \/>\nlist this guy, Shamsul Bahrin, was waxing lyrical non-stop about his 0.7W<br \/>\nDarling amp. What? 0.7W? Are you kidding? Is this even enough to swat flies? I<br \/>\nthen realized this guy must be serious when he&#8217;s putting aside expensive makes like<br \/>\nJolida and Rogers to listen to his Darling. Hmm&#8230; the fact that tubes are<br \/>\nmuch sexier to look at is another plus. Hence a few e-mails to Shamsul later and<br \/>\nI finally found &#8216;Papa Darling&#8217; &#8212; Bob Danielak.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Legend has it that Bob built an average-sounding amp<br \/>\nbut stumbled across some cute looking tubes in a surplus store one day. He tried<br \/>\nthem in this amp and the sound impressed him greatly! After optimizing the<br \/>\ncircuit, he gave it freely on his website to anyone crazy enough to go a gaga<br \/>\nover 0.7W. One of these guys is Rick Francis who&#8217;s used to building huge mammoth<br \/>\nsized amps, so when one day he built the still-unnamed-tiny-amp, Rick&#8217;s wife<br \/>\ntook a liking to it and said &quot;what a darling&quot;. And there you have it!<br \/>\nThe Darling!<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>It&#8217;s easy to see the popularity of the Darling.<br \/>\nFirst, the choice of output tube, the 1626 which is an unknown in the audio<br \/>\nworld. It&#8217;s actually a RF oscillator and the curves don&#8217;t look good on paper at<br \/>\nall but it is Bob&#8217;s ingenuity to operate this tube at a region where it works<br \/>\nbest for audio. Kudos to Bob. Secondly, the 1626 is a very cheap tube. Thanks to<br \/>\nit&#8217;s non-audio pedigree, these tubes are available at next to nothing. How about<br \/>\nUSD3 per tube? (The 1626 is a victim of its own success,&nbsp; it&#8217;s hard to get<br \/>\nthem at USD3 these days.) And this is NOS Sylvania, RCA, Tung-sol, Ken-rad, Hytron&#8230;<br \/>\nCompare this with a pair of Western Electric 300B that cost 300 times more expensive and it&#8217;s easy to<br \/>\nsee why it&#8217;s popular. Oh yeah, plus Bob utilizes cheap components in the<br \/>\nDarling. Any half-baked designer can take some boutique parts and assemble into<br \/>\na good sounding amp but it takes talent and vision of a genius to do some with<br \/>\ncheap parts. The output transformer is a Hammond 125SE that puts out a sound that<br \/>\nbelies its cost. How much to build a Darling? How about less than USD300? Since<br \/>\nit&#8217;s &quot;cheap and good&quot;, we got a winner here. <\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Thirdly, another DIYer, Gary Kaufman, organized<br \/>\nmega sales of the 1626. He cut deals with surplus stores and shipped literally<br \/>\nhundreds of these &quot;poor man&#8217;s 300B&quot; to many crazy DIYers. <\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Which brings to this DIYer-wannabe. After visiting<br \/>\nBob&#8217;s website, I longed to listen to the Darling in action but Shamsul stays too<br \/>\nfar away in Kota Kinabalu. Well? What choice do I have? Build one! <\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>I began to acquire all the parts I need. As a<br \/>\ntotal greenhorn, I really paid more than I had to on lots of components. Next<br \/>\ncame the most laborious part &#8211; planning. My dad always tell me &quot;when you<br \/>\nfail to plan, you plan to fail&quot;. Plus the fact that I&#8217;m going to deal with<br \/>\n260VDC here makes the above words more pertinent&#8230; After consulting some tube<br \/>\ngurus on the layout, I began to build. <\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Utilizing some bench drills at the workplace, I<br \/>\nhad a steel plate cut and drilled but it was really more work than necessary.<br \/>\nStupid me chose stainless steel and this thing is really tough! I got some help<br \/>\nalong the way but only realized how hard stainless steel is when I had to do<br \/>\nsome filing myself. You see, octal sockets to fit the 1626 is 27mm in diameter<br \/>\nwhile the biggest drill bit available to me was a 26mm. Filing off this 1mm took<br \/>\nme one whole hour! (I wonder how tough is &quot;buns of steel&quot;?)<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>A couple of late nights later, I finally got it<br \/>\nassembled. The thought of while the rest of the population drifts off to<br \/>\nDreamland, and I&#8217;m creating magic, makes me<br \/>\nfeel good&#8230; After powering up (and running away lest it explodes and bring down<br \/>\nthe whole neighborhood), all voltages measured okay and I was itching to play<br \/>\nmusic already! But you are not going to try on your expensive speakers right?<br \/>\nWhere to find cheap speakers? I had an idea but I still feel bad over this&#8230;<br \/>\nanyway, I went ahead and ripped off my car speakers&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Pressed &#8216;play&#8217; and&#8230; hooray! I have music! It&#8217;s<br \/>\nsinging! Another Darling is born! The Gods must be smiling on me! I still<br \/>\nremember the exact date, 10 March 2001, that&#8217;s how momentous this has been. (to<br \/>\ntell the truth, a buddy had a durian bet with me to complete this amp by this<br \/>\ndate after hearing me talk about it for 2 agonizing years.)&nbsp; But something is not<br \/>\nright. It hums, badly but its character is there and I could swap tubes! I put<br \/>\nin the RCA 1626 and it sounded sweet. Hey, you folks listening to sand amps, try<br \/>\nto do this!<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>A few consultations on the Net later, I began<br \/>\nmy mission with vengeance: to eradicate hum from mankind, once and for all.<br \/>\nOkay, it&#8217;s not that grandiose but the action plan is this:<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<ol>\n\t<span><\/p>\n<li>twist tightly filament heating wires. At least<br \/>\n\t3 knots in an inch. This cancels out, to some degree, stray magnetic flux<br \/>\n\tfrom each wire.<\/li>\n<li>grounding heater center taps or elevating it to<br \/>\n\tsome higher potential.<\/li>\n<li>grounding the chassis. <\/li>\n<p>\t<\/span>\n<\/ol>\n<p>\n<span><span>I tried all 3 and hum is gone. I&#8217;m happy! I have<br \/>\nmy music and it&#8217;s hum free!<\/span><\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span><span>So I thought&#8230; Then I hear hum again. This time<br \/>\nit&#8217;s more menacing. Sometimes you hear it, sometimes you don&#8217;t. Talking about<br \/>\nThe Phantom Menance&#8230;<\/span><\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span><span>This bugged me for quite a while until one day<br \/>\nwhen music was playing and hum was singing, I accidentally touched the RCA<br \/>\nshield of my interconnect and&#8230; DEAD SILENCE. No hum at all! Huh? I found out I<br \/>\nhaven&#8217;t grounded the chassis after all! Oh well, a simple wire and that&#8217;s it! No<br \/>\nmore hum! <\/span><\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span><span>[As an aside, please be reminded that this<br \/>\n&quot;one finger poke here and there&quot; tweak is no solution to audio<br \/>\nproblems. I had the learning experience of electrolytic capacitors discharging<br \/>\nits contents on my fingers not once, but TWICE. Whoever said &quot;once bitten<br \/>\ntwice shy&quot; obviously haven&#8217;t met me yet.]<\/span><\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span><span>There you have it! My journey to ecstasy! SE<br \/>\nmagic!&nbsp;<\/span><\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span><span><a href=\"http:\/\/diyparadise.com\/web\/index.php?option=com_content&amp;task=view&amp;id=43&amp;Itemid=27&amp;limit=1&amp;limitstart=1\" target=\"_self\">Part 2. Romancing the Darling&#8230;<\/a><\/span><\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<h2><span>&nbsp;<\/span><\/h2>\n<p>\n<span>&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<hr class=\"system-pagebreak\" \/>\n<h2 align=\"center\"><span>Romancing the Darling&#8230;<\/span><\/h2>\n<p>\n<span><br \/>\nAlright! I now have my Darling singing but the fun of DIY has just begun&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>It was not until a year later that I had my chance<br \/>\nto romance my Darling. You see, I now have my pair of 97dB sensitive Hammer Dynamics<br \/>\nSuper 12 up and running! Previously, when driving a pair of 86dBs I had to<br \/>\nlisten nearfield and to material with limited dynamic range. Now that my Hammers<br \/>\nare up and running, my Darling is able to flex her muscles. Oh yeah!<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>The sound is good, the sound is nice. Any<br \/>\ndeficiency easily masked by the achievement so far but &quot;itchy hand&quot;<br \/>\nstrikes and you are eager to find out how far you can go. But upgrading your DIY amp is different<br \/>\nfrom other audiophiles. Instead of buying\/selling amps\/speakers\/CD players\/cables etc,<br \/>\nyou focus on the internal organs, the components.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<h3><span>Step by step<\/span><\/h3>\n<p>\n<span>The first upgrade I did was change the coupling<br \/>\ncapacitor from a local make to Auricaps. Both are of the same material,<br \/>\npolypropylene. Wow! If previously I could hear some echo and an overly<br \/>\nemphasized lower midrange. This is now gone! And I thought those were artifacts<br \/>\nfrom the Hammers. It is as though a teacher took a cane to discipline her and my<br \/>\nDarling behaves a lot more nicely now.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Then came the next upgrade. I took out the <a href=\"http:\/\/diyparadise.com\/w\/auricap.html\"><br \/>\nAuricaps<\/a> and put in the <a href=\"http:\/\/diyparadise.com\/w\/jensen.html\"> Jensen<\/a> copper foil paper in foil capacitors. Now, this<br \/>\nis one massive cap. It&#8217;s much heavier and cost more than twice the Auricaps. Put<br \/>\nthem in and&#8230; my goodness! The sound changed so much it&#8217;s like changing amps!<br \/>\nNo, I&#8217;m not talking about subtle changes here but BIG MASSIVE CHANGES. Albert Au<br \/>\nsounded so romantic now, while warm sounding vocals like CaiQin becomes too syrupy, too thick. Huh? Looks like the Jensens work great with low husky male<br \/>\nvocals while the Auricaps love to gyrate with femme fatales more. <\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Out came the Jensen and in went the Auricaps. And<br \/>\nI played music for days&#8230; <\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>But then I read that paper-in-oil capacitors need<br \/>\nsome hours to break in and that few hours of playing the Jensens surely didn&#8217;t<br \/>\ndo justice to it. Okay, let the Auricaps play for a week first, familiarize with<br \/>\nthe sound first.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>So I thought.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>A week later, took out the Auricaps and put in the<br \/>\nJensens. This time, I got the Jensens in a different orientation. Though they<br \/>\ndon&#8217;t come with a recommended orientation, Jensens recommend experimentation as<br \/>\nto which orientation sounds better. This time I got the foil side connected to<br \/>\nthe input. Played music and&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Nope. It was totally different from the previous<br \/>\nexperience. The Jensens don&#8217;t sound so thick like before but what&#8217;s amazing is,<br \/>\nyou hear more treble and bass takes more definition. What&#8217;s better is, the<br \/>\ncritical midrange is smoothened out somewhat. Great stuff here! Albert Au doesn&#8217;t<br \/>\nsound so romantic like before while CaiQin is a hell lot more listenable than<br \/>\nbefore. This<br \/>\nis more like it! More hours of playing later and this character remained<br \/>\nunchanged. Great!<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>However, please bear in mind that this in no way<br \/>\nendorses the Jensens over the Auricaps. Each system will work with each<br \/>\ncomponent. I know of guys whose Auricap worked best while some found Jensens<br \/>\nbetter. The keyword here is EXPERIMENT. Also, in a single ended amp, with so few<br \/>\ncomponents, parts quality is downright critical. A change of ONE cap is enough<br \/>\nto make you go bonkers. The difference is night and day! As such, use these caps<br \/>\nlike how you would like spices. A dash here and there to impart its sonic<br \/>\nflavour.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>The next step I did was to put back the cathode<br \/>\nbypass capacitor. You see, when I encountered a problem with the Darling<br \/>\nearlier, silly me clipped off the leads of this cap too much. As a result, I<br \/>\ncouldn&#8217;t use it anymore. Now that I bought some new caps, better fit them<br \/>\nin. And the sound&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Much louder!&nbsp; All this while, without that<br \/>\ncathode bypass cap, input headroom was compromised. Piano edges, transients<br \/>\nbecame distorted. With this cap in, the Darling is playing more like a 0.7W.<br \/>\nPreviously, I must have been listening at something like 0.4W! Also, with this cap, I<br \/>\ngained more bass, and smoother midrange as well. This is too good! By the way,<br \/>\nthis is the great value Elna Starget. A change later to Elna Cerafine, I didn&#8217;t<br \/>\nhear THAT much improvement.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<h3><span>Detour<\/span><\/h3>\n<p>\n<span>As I enjoy myself with this journey so far, I<br \/>\nbegin to ask this question. What is the reference? Sure, a change of caps here<br \/>\nand there changed the sound but is the change for better or for worse? How do<br \/>\nyou know? I mean, I used Norah Jones many times as a reference for my changes but<br \/>\nhow do I know I&#8217;m attaining the right sound? How do I know her voice is<br \/>\nsupposed to be like the way it&#8217;s playing in my system? Listening on a different set, that<br \/>\nsound is a combination of her vocals, her<br \/>\nmusic IN THAT SYSTEM. No matter how transparent your system is (if this is your<br \/>\ngoal) your system still imbues its character to the music you are listening<br \/>\nto.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>So is Norah Jones&#8217; voice raw and edgy? Sweet and<br \/>\nsultry? How do I<br \/>\nknow? Of course the ideal way would be to kidnap her and get her to sing for you<br \/>\nIN YOUR ROOM, then voice your amp, your system accordingly to best approach her<br \/>\nvoice IN YOUR ROOM but, sadly, this is not a practical option. (If only I have<br \/>\nmy way&#8230;) I heard the designer of Harbeth speakers did exactly this. No, not with Norah Jones but with<br \/>\nhis daughter&#8217;s voice.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>So what does this leave us DIYers? Our frame of<br \/>\nreference is still an interpretation. Well, after thinking for a while, maybe I<br \/>\nshould change my approach. Instead of voicing my system to be transparent<br \/>\nsounding, why not voice it to give you the most musical ecstasy? To the point<br \/>\nthat the very vocals are still distinct and has its own character, whatever this<br \/>\nframe of reference can be. I mean, Diana Krall should sound a lot different from<br \/>\nNorah Jones, should sound a lot different from CaiQin and so on&#8230;&nbsp; Oh<br \/>\nwell&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<h3><span>Back to itchy hands!<\/span><\/h3>\n<p>\n<span>The journey continues! Then I got myself some<br \/>\npower supply chokes. You see, my current power supply is a capacitor-resistor-capacitor<br \/>\nfilter. With this choke, I can replace the resistor with it and it now becomes<br \/>\ncapacitor-choke-capacitor. Chokes work by regulating currents and in a SE amp<br \/>\nwhere there is an appreciable amount of DC current, chokes seem like a godsend.<br \/>\nOkay, I took out the resistor and replaced it with a 10H 120mA choke. Played<br \/>\nmusic and&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>The character changed so much I simply can&#8217;t<br \/>\nbelieve it! First, I thought I heard less volume. It doesn&#8217;t seem to play as<br \/>\nloud as before but more warm-up later, it&#8217;s not that I&#8217;m hearing less but that<br \/>\nthe stage has moved backwards! Previously, when Norah Jones sings, she&#8217;s<br \/>\nstanding just in front of you, but she&#8217;s much larger than life! Now, with the<br \/>\nchoke, she&#8217;s moved backwards somewhat and she&#8217;s more lifelike in scale! The<br \/>\nstage begins at the speaker face and extends backwards. Wow! Also, if you listen<br \/>\ncarefully, bass does go deeper, there&#8217;s more definition there and the sound<br \/>\noverall is smoother. Great stuff! Don&#8217;t tell me how a simple choke brings about<br \/>\nsuch a big change!<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Few weeks passed by, then some NOS output<br \/>\ntransformers arrived. At the moment, the Hammond 125Es, due to their 100Hz<br \/>\ncutoff, doesn&#8217;t allow the Hammers to flex its bass muscles. I thus bought this<br \/>\npair of NOS output trans to try and see if it betters the Hammonds. Put them in<br \/>\nand&#8230; this is disappointing. In place of the Hammonds, the music now is dull,<br \/>\ndull, dull. Frequency extension is even more limited than the Hammonds. Forget<br \/>\nabout the bass, there&#8217;s not much treble either. Looks like a bad purchase.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Oh well, this is not the end of the world.<br \/>\nRetaining the NOS output transformers, I added the Hammonds in as well and<br \/>\nrewired the whole mess so that the NOS output transformers play the role of<br \/>\nplate choke while the Hammond resume output transformer duties. Also, fitted<br \/>\nhuge, massive, great-for-ego 5uF oil caps. What is all this mess, you ask?&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<table border=\"0\" bordercolor=\"#ffffff\" width=\"100%\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"50%\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/diyparadise.com\/w\/wp-content\/uploads\/images\/stories\/shuntfeed.gif\" border=\"0\" height=\"300\" width=\"400\" \/><\/td>\n<td width=\"50%\"><span> Well<br \/>\n\t\t\tthis circuit arrangement is called shunt feed, or parallel feed, or just plain<br \/>\n\t\t\tparafeed. What we have now here is that a plate choke loads the output tube and<br \/>\n\t\t\tallows only DC current to flow through. The oil cap blocks DC from flowing<br \/>\n\t\t\tthrough the output trans. As such, when signal is present (AC), it&#8217;ll go through<br \/>\n\t\t\tthe output transformers. This means that the output trans doesn&#8217;t seem any DC<br \/>\n\t\t\tflowing through it. As such it doesn&#8217;t need an air gap. This should be<br \/>\n\t\t\teasier to fabricate, with better material, smaller in size&#8230; all the<br \/>\n\t\t\tgoodies!<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>\n<span>Yeah, enough of techno babble. After some REALLY<br \/>\nmessy wiring, played music and&#8230; Cowabunga! This is even better than before!<br \/>\nNo, the character hasn&#8217;t changed much but the bass has! I get more bass<br \/>\nextension now. This is no more a 100Hz roll-off. It rolls off lower though at<br \/>\nquite a steep slope but the fact that it goes lower gives me the smiles! I love<br \/>\nthis! Later, I then tried Ultrapath, a circuit configuration that feeds the<br \/>\nsignal BACK to the output tube cathode but didn&#8217;t hear much difference.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<h3><span>Is this the end?&nbsp;<\/span><\/h3>\n<p>\n<span> Not really but I had to rebuild my<br \/>\nDarling as I ran out of space to for my DIY fun. This time though, I broke my own rule. I changed too many things at one<br \/>\ntime so I really can&#8217;t tell which caused what changes. Changes are all in the<br \/>\npower supply section. Power supply filter is now choke input instead of<br \/>\ncapacitor input. Power supply filter capacitance is greatly reduced. Additionally, tube rectifiers in the form of<br \/>\nultra-cool TV damper diodes is now being used rather than the earlier sand<br \/>\nrectifiers. Now have 2 power transformers as well, one for B+ while one for<br \/>\nfilament. Oh yeah, I took this opportunity to upgrade to a much beefier B+<br \/>\ntrans. Used to be 60VA, now it&#8217;s 150VA when I actually only need less than<br \/>\n30VA&#8230;&nbsp;There&#8217;s lots of iron now. 2 power trans, 3 chokes, 2 huge &#8216;sardine<br \/>\ncan&#8217; oil caps&#8230; All this just for the power supply.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/diyparadise.com\/w\/wp-content\/uploads\/images\/stories\/newdarling.gif\" border=\"0\" height=\"529\" width=\"512\" \/>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Signal circuitry still remains unchanged but<br \/>\nAuricaps were put in instead as they were of a more transparent nature, thus<br \/>\neasier to listen to the changes in the power supply. Built the whole thing on 2<br \/>\npieces of plywood. One for the power supply (this weigh more than 10kg!) and<br \/>\nanother much bigger piece for the signal section.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>It took only 2 days to build but a few days to<br \/>\nreduce all the hum. On wood chassis, it&#8217;s harder to work against hum as you<br \/>\ndon&#8217;t have a metal chassis to ground all the hash away but all rules concerning<br \/>\nsignal ground, earth ground and AC filaments still have to be observed.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>With all that done, there&#8217;s still an evil 1V<br \/>\nripple riding on the B+. On this power supply, circuit simulation showed only<br \/>\n10mV but I&#8217;m seeing a lot more. So much for simulation&#8230; Anyway, tuning the<br \/>\nchoke to 100Hz should reduce this ripple by some tenths of dB.<br \/>\nThough the choke is rated for 5H at 250mA and calculation shows a 0.5uF cap,<br \/>\nputting this cap in had almost nil difference. Huh? Well, 5H is measured AT<br \/>\n250mA but we now have only 70mA, so the inductance is actually higher. How much<br \/>\nhigher? No idea but slowly paralleling the caps, adding 0.1uF at a time and<br \/>\nslowly bring you to the right point.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>I did exactly that and it was the toughest part of<br \/>\nrebuilding the Darling. Finally a capacitance of 0.74uF gave total SILENCE on my<br \/>\n97dB Hammers.&nbsp;Calculating back, the choke seems to be only 3H&#8230; So much<br \/>\nfor measurements&#8230;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Oh yeah! Took the opportunity to wire in the<br \/>\nHammond 125ESE instead of the earlier 125E. Another variable.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<h3><span>The sound?&nbsp;<\/span><\/h3>\n<p>\n<span>Glorious! Actually I can&#8217;t actually remember much<br \/>\nabout my earlier Darling sound but there&#8217;s unmistakably much more BASS and the<br \/>\nsystem is pretty punchy! Bass is quick, I attribute to the low capacitance in<br \/>\nthe power supply. JC Morrison used to say those systems touting hundreds of<br \/>\nmicrofarad always boast on its ability to release a torrent of energy at a pin<br \/>\ndrop but no one ever says how long it takes to recover itself.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>I tend to agree here.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Imagine a few hundred micro-farad in the power<br \/>\nsupply. Yes, the first bass note goes deep, almost exhausting all its charges<br \/>\nbut it needs TIME to recharge itself for the next assault. This much capacitance<br \/>\ntakes time to recharge fully. If it doesn&#8217;t fully recharge, the subsequent bass<br \/>\nnotes suffer.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>But in a system of much lesser capacitance, the<br \/>\ncharge and discharge cycle can be pretty quick, thus more in time with the<br \/>\nmusic.&nbsp;<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<p>\n<span>Anyway, this is just what I think. It&#8217;s worth<br \/>\nSQUAT in the grand scheme of things. Who cares as long as you are enjoying the<br \/>\nmusic? And I&#8217;m glad to say that the humble little Darling, with its 0.7W worth<br \/>\nof Class A SE is worth every 0.1W of them.<\/span>\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<h2>&nbsp;<\/h2>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<p>\n&nbsp;\n<\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>My DIY Darling journey.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":73,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[1523,1298,1413,1459],"class_list":["post-72","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-learn-learn-learn","tag-1523","tag-papa-darling","tag-power-supply","tag-the-darling","has_thumb"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Power Corrupts! 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